Furniture Care Guide

How to care for your furniture

Linens, Velvets, Polyesters, and Blends

The Golden Rule: Vacuum regularly. Dust and grit act like sandpaper on fabric fibers, wearing them down over time. Use a soft brush attachment.
Rotation: Flip and rotate cushions weekly to ensure even wear and prevent "favorite spot" sagging.
Spills: Blot, never rub. Use a clean, white cloth. Rubbing pushes the liquid deeper into the fibers and can damage the nap.
Sunlight: Direct UV rays are the enemy of pigment. Keep fabric pieces away from windows or use UV-filtering curtains to prevent fading.

Top Grain, Full Grain, and Aniline

Buffing: Use a soft, dry microfiber cloth for weekly dusting.
Conditioning: Leather is skin; it needs moisture. Apply a high-quality leather conditioner every 6–12 months to prevent cracking and keep it supple.
The "No-No" List: Avoid soaps, detergents, or any product containing ammonia or bleach. These strip the natural oils and will cause the leather to peel or discolor.
Placement: Keep leather at least 2 feet away from heat sources (radiators/fireplaces) to prevent drying.

Breathable Synthetic "Air" Leather

Note: Leatheraire is a high-tech fabric designed to look like leather but breathe like cloth. It requires different care than genuine hide.

Cleaning: Use a damp (not soaking) cloth with mild, pH-neutral soap.
Avoid Oils: Unlike real leather, do not use leather oils or waxes. These can break down the synthetic bonding and cause the surface to become sticky or delaminate.
Gentle Touch: Avoid abrasive scrubbers which can scratch the micro-perforations that make the material breathable.

Solid Hardwoods, Oak, Walnut, and MDF Veneers

Humidity Control: Wood breathes. Extreme changes in humidity can cause warping or splitting. Aim for a stable indoor humidity of 35–45%.
Liquid Protection: Always use coasters and trivets. Water rings (white clouds) occur when moisture gets trapped under the finish.
Veneer Care: Since veneer is a thin layer of real wood over a core, be extra careful not to "over-wet" it during cleaning, as this can loosen the glue and cause bubbling.
Polishing: Use a high-quality furniture wax rather than silicone-based sprays, which can create buildup that is difficult to remove.

Natural and Engineered Surfaces

Material Sensitivity Care Tip

1. Marble - High (Porous) Seal it. Marble is prone to "etching" from acids (lemon juice, wine). Re-seal every 6 months.

2. Ceramic - Low (Durable) Very heat and scratch resistant. Clean with warm soapy water.

3. Stone (Granite/Travertine) - Medium Avoid "All-Purpose" cleaners. Use cleaners specifically labeled for stone to maintain the shine.

Immediate Action: If you spill something acidic (vinegar, soda, citrus) on natural stone, wipe it up immediately. It will eat through the finish in minutes.
Heat: While ceramic is heat-resistant, natural stone can suffer from "thermal shock." Always use a placemat for hot pots or plates.

Stainless Steel, Chrome, Brass, and Powder-Coated Steel

Fingerprint Management: For polished metals like chrome or stainless steel, use a dedicated metal cleaner or a drop of olive oil on a cloth to remove smudges and add a protective barrier.
Oxidation: Solid brass and copper will develop a "patina" (darkening) over time. If you prefer the shiny look, you'll need a specialized metal polish; otherwise, leave it alone for an antique look. Using the wrong type of polish or the use of hard chemicals can cause the patina to develop much quicker and stronger that if left alone. It is vitally important that you patch test any chemicals or polish on an inconspicuous part of the furniture before applying it to the whole piece. You should allow 24 hours for the patch test as certain chemicals can remain active for a day or more.
Powder-Coating: This is a dry finish applied to metal (often on outdoor furniture or modern table legs). It is very durable but can chip. Avoid abrasive pads, which can scratch the coating and lead to rust.

Tempered Glass, Lucite, and Perspex

Scratch Prevention: Acrylic (Lucite) is much softer than glass. Never use paper towels to clean acrylic, as the tiny fibers can cause micro-scratches. Use a clean microfiber cloth and a specialized plastic cleaner.
Glass Safety: Only use "ammonia-free" glass cleaners on mirrors or tinted glass to prevent damage to the silvering or film.
Weight Limits: Unlike wood, glass doesn't "bend" before it breaks. Always respect the weight capacity of glass shelving.

Rattan, Wicker, Cane, Jute & Wool

Hydration: These materials are "living" fibers. If they get too dry, they become brittle and snap. Lightly misting rattan or cane with water every few months can actually extend its life.
Vacuuming: Use the crevice tool to get dust out of the tight weaves, as dust buildup can cause mold if the environment gets humid.
Sagging: For cane seating, placing a damp towel on the underside overnight can sometimes help "shrink" the fibers back into a tight position.

Teak, Poly-lumber (HDPE), and Wrought Iron

Teak: This wood is naturally oily and rot-resistant. You can let it age to a "silver-grey" or apply Teak Oil annually to keep the golden-brown hue.
HDPE (Poly-lumber): Made from recycled plastic, this is nearly indestructible. A power wash or a scrub with soap and water is usually all it needs.
Storage: Regardless of the material, the best care for outdoor furniture is covering it or storing it indoors during the off-season to prevent UV and moisture fatigue.